Where the Borghese Slept


Continuing our new habit, we slept until after 10am then leisurely prepared for a day out. Lunch was at Il Brillo Parlante, another restaurant specializing in traditional Roman favorites. For me that meant all the fried food: suppli (a rice ball with mozzarella cheese in breadcrumbs), arancino Siciliano (a Sicilian version of suppli), and Filetti di Baccala (fried cod); J. had the Stringozzo (fresh pasta with meat ragu).

I didn’t take a picture, but here’s one from the internet.

Replete, we walked through town to the Borghese Gallery, the former home of the family  of that name (not to be confused — as I did — with the slightly more infamous Borgia family). It’s an intense place: 22 rooms across 2 floors PACKED with art. Everywhere you look there is something to delight the eye, starting with the entryway:

I don’t know about you, but I’m happy if my boots are lined up neatly and my coats hanging from the hooks if company comes by. It didn’t occur to me to try and provide this for my guests as well:

A number of Bernini’s are here, including his Apollo & Daphne:

which features her melting into bark, even her feet dangle into roots. Not mentioned as often but just as powerful is his Rape of Prosperina:

It was exquisite, and slightly exhausting. The one I found the most amusing was some artists depiction of Anubis:

The piece I found the most magnificent was a picture made of inlaid precious gems:

(Sorry it’s slightly blurry. the light was a bit dim and it was tucked behind a door. So, yes, this was an afterthought. But that’s not paint, it’s stone. Incredible.)

For dinner we decided to not be adventurous and returned to Renovia. This time I enjoyed rabbit poached in wine and served with a melange of grilled vegetables. J. enjoyed his pici with meat ragu.

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