We stayed two nights in the delightful Il Giardino degli Etruschi (Garden of the Etruscans), a Bed & Breakfast just outside Chiusi. There are five bedrooms, each with it’s own bathroom and unique sense of style. Geothermal heat keeps the rooms cool during the summer and there is a pool for lazing by. The breakfast was delicious! Homemade sweet things and jam, breads (both sweet and plain), cured meats, cheeses, fruit, yogurt, coffee, juice, and tea. Carolina and Paolo are wonderful hosts — stay here if you’re in the area.
Rain in Italy was very different from how it is at home. In Seattle the rain mostly comes as a steady drizzle or shower. The ‘hard’ rain is just a very steady downpour with a very occasional thunderstorm. It’s pretty mild generally speaking. Italian rain is RAIN. Big, loud, and completely soaking in a matter of minutes. Why am I writing about it like that? Because it rained on our last day in Rome. So hard that the streets flooded after about an hour and we ended up walking in water up to my calf.
But I’m getting ahead of myself.
Continuing our new habit, we slept until after 10am then leisurely prepared for a day out. Lunch was at Il Brillo Parlante, another restaurant specializing in traditional Roman favorites. For me that meant all the fried food: suppli (a rice ball with mozzarella cheese in breadcrumbs), arancino Siciliano (a Sicilian version of suppli), and Filetti di Baccala (fried cod); J. had the Stringozzo (fresh pasta with meat ragu).
I didn’t take a picture, but here’s one from the internet.
We’d had a problem with our debit card the day before, but neither of us paid attention . . . BAD IDEA. You see, taxis in Rome don’t take credit cards. The metro is pretty cheap, but still requires moolah to make it work, and we didn’t have enough to make it to our meeting point for today’s tour. Bank after bank machine turned us down and we were running out of time. . . . and then we missed the tour by 5 minutes.